Sushi Sakai

Located just outside the western exit of Nishiki Market, Sushi Sakai is best known for its signature sabazushi (cured mackerel sushi). Prepared with thick, oil-rich mackerel seasoned with a gentle cure and balanced against lightly vinegared rice, each roll is formed loosely rather than pressed tight, giving it an airy texture that gently falls apart on the palate. While whole rolls can be wrapped for takeaway, enjoying a freshly prepared portion on the spot offers a particularly appealing tenderness.

Just as popular as the pressed sushi are the kaisen-don seafood bowls, arranged with slices cut fresh to order. Options like the mixed bowl or the deluxe "gorgeous" bowl combine an assortment of seafood with sea urchin and salmon roe, finished with hand-torn pieces of toasted nori that lend a rich, roasty aroma. The daily specials on the blackboard and seasonal market arrivals offer plenty of flexibility, from tender simmered anago served over rice or as nigiri to summer hamo (pike conger) and winter crab, paired naturally with red miso soup or a bottled beer.

Seating is limited to a counter with room for only 5 to 6 diners. The interplay between the master, who works quietly over the fish, and the hostess, whose cheerful conversation keeps the room relaxed, sets the easygoing tone of the space. There is no customer restroom inside and payments are cash only, so it helps to arrive prepared before settling in to enjoy the handcrafted sushi.